Out of Town

When somebody mentions the phrases "gay resort" and "New England" in the same sentence, you probably think of one place: Provincetown. But the mother of all queer beach hubs is not the only name in seaside frivolity in this part of the world. Ogunquit, Maine is a great little town just over the New Hampshire border -- it's packed with gay-owned accommodations, festive lobster shacks, and tasteful shops and boutiques, and it contains 3.5 miles of glorious sandy beach. Ogunquit is hardly a secret among folks living in the northeastern United States or Quebec, but for the uninitiated, here's a quick primer on this enchanting getaway.

In the early 20th century, landscape painters began spending time in tiny Ogunquit (pronounced Uh-<gun>-kwit), infusing it with an artsy, slightly bohemian personality that it still retains. The Ogunquit Playhouse, one of the country's first successful summer theaters, opened in 1939, and the gay presence continued to grow steadily over the next few decades. Things really took off in the '70s, when the first gay guest houses and a gay disco opened. There are now several gay inns and three gay bars.

There's not much to see and do here (beyond tanning and swimming of course), and therein lies a good bit of Ogunquit's appeal. Nearly everybody walks or takes the trolley through the commercial district extending from the village center along Routes 1 and 1A, where well-kept shops in mostly clapboard storefronts proffer beach wear, nautical bric-a-brac, saltwater taffy, ice cream, and such. The region's arts heritage is revealed at the small but excellent Ogunquit Museum of American Art, which enjoys a stunning setting on a meadow by the ocean. Plan to spend one evening taking in a play at the Ogunquit Playhouse, and at least one sunny afternoon strolling along the mile-long ocean-side footpath, Marginal Way. Here you'll be treated to numerous photo-ops, and in several places you can scurry right out along the rocks. The path ends at Perkins Cove, a collection of shops and eateries and an ideal spot either for a pre-stroll breakfast or post-stroll cocktail.

If you stay for more than a couple days and thoughts of discount clothing and household goods get your blood pumping, drive 15 miles south to Kittery, which overflows with both mid-range and high-end outlet shops. Closer by is York, where in 1991 a couple named Jonathan King and Jim Stott started selling their fabulous jams, mustards, relishes, and sauces at a local farmers market. They soon formed Stonewall Kitchen, a now-internationally renowned emporium and mail order company of delicious gourmet foods. You can visit the shop inside the huge new company headquarters, right on Route 1.

As for eating in Ogunquit, the dining scene spans several price ranges, but no matter where you end up, neat but casual attire is perfectly suitable. Arrows is on every critic's short list of the top restaurants in Maine (reserve a week or more ahead on summer weekends). A dinner of lobster risotto followed by grilled salmon and radicchio with marinated fennel and baked polenta inspires awe. Another wonderful find for a first-rate romantic meal is 98 Provence, set in a characterful farmhouse and serving such sublime creations as braised spring lamb shank with cumin and tabouleh.

Arguably the best (though the most touristy) seafood house in town, Hurricane has an unbeatable setting in Perkins Cove overlooking the ocean. The lobster chowder is much-celebrated; a typical entree is the Cuervo-and-lime-glazed swordfish. A former stagecoach stop near Perkins Cove, Poor Richard's features a menu of true New England classics. It's also a nice place to stop in for a beer and chat with locals, though you should call for dinner reservations, as it fills up quickly in season.

Thetres gay Front Porch Cafe is a cheerful little space with a dependable, eclectic menu of burgers, pizzas, pastas, steamed mussels, nachos, and the like. There's live piano most afternoons and evenings. With a festive deck and a bright and cheerful dining room, the Atlantic Cafe is a great option for any meal; this would be a good place to try those lobster rolls you've been craving or drop by at breakfast for yummy omelets and pancakes. Many visitors staying at nearby guest houses rub shoulders at Fancy That either for lunch or to pick up fixings for a picnic at the beach. They serve about 20 creative sandwiches and wraps in addition to wines, cheeses, coffees, bagels, and sweets. Cozy, women-operated Cafe Amore serves tasty breakfast (try the lobster eggs Benedict) and lunch fare (plus coffees), and the elegant Bread and Roses bakery serves espresso, plus exquisite fresh-baked tarts, cookies, and other sweets with Parisian flair, and gourmet sandwiches and pizzas, too.

When the urge to socialize strikes you, consider the aforementioned Front Porch. It's where many people go early in the evening, for cocktails and cabaret before or after dinner, or to get warmed up before going out to one of the discos. Also good for drinks is the bar and restaurant at the

Admiral's Inn. The Club has long been the town's main gay disco. On the first floor is a recently expanded dance floor; upstairs is a video bar. New on the scene is the Maine Street Video Bar and Cabaret, a smartly decorated and trendy cruise and chat space with a friendly staff, a weekend tea dance in season, a menu of bar munchies and light fare (served 'til 11 p.m.), and great dancing.

Ogunquit has more than a dozen gay-friendly inns, a sampling of which follows. If you have trouble scoring a last-minute room, don't give up - the Ogunquit Chamber of Commerce can help find you a room at one of the numerous mainstream motor lodges and hotels in town. None of these places markets specifically to the community, but the chamber staff are generally very good at matching gay visitors with properties where they'll feel comfortable (the whole town is quite tolerant, but keep in mind that this is also a major families-with-kids destination). The gay/lesbian properties tend to be cheaper -- but also less fancy -- than those in Provincetown, and all but a couple of them welcome straights also.

One of the more recently opened inns, the Black Boar is also perhaps the most upscale, with working fireplaces in most bedrooms, modern tiled baths, and attractive wallpapering and antiques. The core of the house dates to 1674, and it retains it historical character. Lush gardens surround the house, which is right in the center of downtown. The upscale Yellow Monkey is a large, venerable guest house consisting of five characterful buildings; it's long been a favorite choice of lesbians and gays. Accommodations range from romantic private cottages with fireplaces and ocean views to smaller but still-charming motel and inn rooms -- the beach is very close.

But not all the best inns are named after colorful animals. A favorite for many years is the mostly gay Inn at Two Village Square. Set high on a bluff overlooking downtown and the ocean, this 1886 house has cozy, whimsically furnished rooms and a beautiful front sundeck overlooking the village and water. Activities center around the pool and the sprawling wooden deck, and informal get-togethers are held many nights. With an eclectic mix of motel units, efficiencies, and guest-house rooms, the Admiral's Inn strikes a convivial note with its six-person hot tub, clothing-optional pool and deck, and cocktail bar and full-service restaurant. Rooms range from cozy and simple to large with refrigerators, and all have fairly simple but pleasant resort decor.

Moon Over Maine is a cheerful guest house in the center of Ogunquit, run by a friendly owner and his cute cat Squeak. It's a fine option, in part because it's just steps from shops, dining, and the beach. The fully restored 1830s Cape-style house is period decorated, each room named for a different planet, and some of them with balconies. All have quilted bedspreads, well-chosen art, and upscale bath amenities.

A couple of nice but lesser-priced options include the Leisure Inn, a peaceful 1915 complex comprising a main house and some cottages and

partments in back, and the neighboring Ogunquit Beach Inn, a handsome little compound dating to 1929 and consisting of a main guest house plus two fully equipped cottages. On a quiet residential street and a 15-minute walk from both downtown and Perkins Cove, the contemporary but Victorian-style Heritage of Ogunquit has spacious guest rooms rented on a weekly basis in season and brightened with smart fabrics and hand-stenciling (many of the touches executed by hostess Rica Shepardson). Each room is named after a famous woman, such as Lily Tomlin or Gertrude Stein. The clientele is mostly lesbian, and guests have use of the main kitchen.

Andrew Collins authored Fodor's Gay Guide to the U.S.A, the Connecticut Handbook, and six regional gay guides for Fodor's. He can be reached at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it .

For more Out of Town, visit www.planetout.com-travel, www.gayexplorer.com, or www.gay.com.

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